These figures will be based by the owner as they have been painted on his behalf. As they comprise 12 figures and I painted each horse in its own horse color recipe I decided I would share some of horse color variations I chose.
1) Vallejo London grey (836) or TT combat paint admiralty grey. I used the TT admiralty grey but it’s essentially the same color as the London grey. 100 percent base coat of the grey then add pure white to lighten to for the second layer and so forth adding more white for additional layers until satisfied.
2) black. I used pro acrylic black as the base coat then lighten it with Vallejo medium flesh (860) for the second layer and again lighten further for the third (and a 4th if you wish) layer by adding additional medium flesh.
3) I used TT combat paint damp sand though Vallejo German beige (821) is a close equivalent. 100 percent damp sand then added ivory to lighten for the second layer and then additional ivory for the third and 4th highlight. For contrast use a dark brown for the mane, tail, and leg markings below the knees.
4) Vallejo chocolate brown (872) for the base coat. For the second layer add in about a 50/50 mix of vallejo beige brown (875) for the second layer. The third layer I lighten it up with Vallejo desert yellow (977) by adding in roughly 25 percent of it to the mix for final highlights.
5)Vallejo dark rust (771) mixed equally with black for base layer. Second layer 100 percent dark rust. Then add in roughly 50 percent of Vallejo flat brown (994) to the dark rust. For a final highlight I chose to lighten it further with a small amount of Vallejo orange brown (981)
6) Vallejo chocolate brown (872) mixed equally with black. Second layer 100 percent chocolate brown then to lighten for further layers used Vallejo beige brown (875). TT combat paints one can use trench brown in place of chocolate brown and driftwood brown in place of beige brown which I actually did.
7) beige brown (875) mixed equally with Vallejo cavalry brown (982) for base layer. The second layer I used Vallejo flat flesh (975) by adding it to the original mix and continue to lighten for the third layer by adding more flat flesh to the mix to the final highlights. If one prefers a paler horse without the reddish color start 100 percent with the beige brown then add in additional amounts of flat flesh. For a final highlight a small amount of white added in to the mix will work.
8) Equal mix of Vallejo hull red (985) and black for the base layer. Second layer add 50 percent more hull red. For third layer add Vallejo cavalry brown (982). I used roughly 25 percent cavalry brown to the original mix. Again tailor it to your desired contrast….if you wish for a lighter coat start the original mix with less black and final highlights with more Vallejo cavalry brown.
9) Vallejo mahogany brown (876) with equal amount of black for base coat. For second coat add more mahogany brown to the mix for as many layers you choose. A variation is to use only 10-20 percent black or even a very dark brown color to mahogany brown for the base coat with only mahogany brown for the second layer. Then add some Vallejo desert yellow (977) to lighten for final highlights.
For socks/markings for darker horse shades I use sky grey for the base color then add white to lighten for successful layers. Lighter horses I prefer desert yellow for the base coat then lighten by adding successful amounts of white. For black tails, manes and black leggings pro acryl dark neutral grey, Vallejo black grey (862) or TT combat paints dark slate grey all will work as an acceptable highlight. Couple final notes….AK 3rd generation paints have many near equivalents to Vallejo that can easily be swapped in place. I do realize TT combat paints probably most readers do not have…but they are fine paints that allow for plenty of thinning which works well when applying several layers for horses why I added those color options. Generally, for larger surfaces I prefer more gradual transition in colors often going for a fourth highlight being applied in paint being well thinned. Smaller surface areas I intentionally make for more stark transitions…one will notice from the pics for example the faces and boots are more stark in contrast than the horses. Reason being…on the table top when the figures are not blown up on one’s computer screen from the pics…smaller surfaces require that stronger transition to stand out and they do not appear as stark from a distance viewing. I do hope to supply more color recipes going forward…I will be posting a bunch of single Viking figures from Footsore latest release and some particular color choices that are applicable for Vikings soon. Hoping this will be of some value to readers.
